India Travel

India is not a country that provides huge obstacles to women travellers petty

Indian streets are almost without exception male-dominated - something that may take a bit of getting used to, particularly when you find yourself subjected to incessant staring, whistling and name calling. This can usually be stopped by ignoring the gaze and quickly moving on, or by firmly telling the offender to stop looking at you. Most of your fellow travellers on trains and buses will be men who may start up most unwelcome conversations about sex, divorce and the freedom of relationships in the West. These cannot often be avoided, but demonstrating too much enthusiasm to discuss such topics can lure men into thinking that you are easy about sex, and the situation could become threatening. At its worst in larger cities, all this can become very tiring. You can get round it to a certain extent by joining women in public places, and you’ll notice an immense difference if you join up with a male travelling companion. In this case, expect Indian men to approach him (assumed, of j course, to be your husband - an assumption it is sometimes advantageous to go along with) and talk to him about you quite ; happily as if you were not there. Beware, however, if you are (or look) Indian with a : non-Indian male companion: this may well ! cause you grief and harassment, as you will j be seen to have brought shame on your family by adopting the loose morals of the West.

In addition to staring and suggestive com¬ments and looks, sexual harassment, or “Eve teasing” as it is bizarrely known, is likely I to be a nuisance, but not generally a threat. ! North Indian men are particularly renowned for their disregard of women’s rights, and it I is on the plains of Uttar Pradesh and Bihar that you are most likely to experience physical hassle. Expect to get groped in crowds, and to have men “accidentally” squeeze past you at any opportunity. It tends to be worse in cities than in small towns and vil¬lages, but anywhere being followed can be a real problem.

In time you’ll learn to gauge a situation -j sometimes wandering around on your own may attract so much unwanted attention : that you may prefer to stay in one place until : you’ve recharged your batteries or your male fan club has moved on. It’s always best to i dress modestly - a salwar kamise is perfect, : as is any baggy clothing - and refrain from smoking and drinking in public, which only I reinforces suspicions that Western women I are “loose” and “easy".

Returning an unwanted touch with a ; punch or slap is perfectly in order (Indian women often become aggressive when I offended), and does serve to vent a little I frustration. It should also attract attention and urge someone to help you, or at least ; deal with the offending man - a man transgressing social norms is always out of line, and any passer-by will want to let him know it. If you feel someone getting too close in a crowd or on a bus, brandishing your left shoe in his face can be very effective.

To go and watch a Bollywood movie at the cinema is a fun and essential part of your trip to India, but unfortunately such an occasion is rarely without hassle. The crowd is predominantly male and mostly young at that. If you do go to the cinema, go with a group of people and/or sit in the balcony area - it’s a bit more expensive but the crowd is much more sedate up there. Violent sexual assaults on tourists are extremely rare, but unfortunately the num-For more on